The New York Times
January 21, 2007

Westchester

Fast Food, Without Preservatives

By M.H.REED

Hungry for some fast food? Perhaps a tender, juicy hot dog, without nitrates, from Dines Farms? Or maybe a pair of mini grain-fed beef burgers, without hormones? Pony Express to Go, in Pleasantville, has them, and more, to order.

In addition to being terrifically tasty, these and other popular offerings at this alternative fast-food operation are bargains, especially for this kind of quality. That natural hot dog is $2.75. An order of shrimp and fries is $9.

“Anything we can't decipher on an ingredients list, we don't use,” said Phil McGrath, a partner with Todd Albright and Jonathan Sandak in this venture and the chef and owner of Iron Horse Grill, just across the pocket park at the railway overpass. Nothing on the appealing and forward-looking menu contains preservatives.

Here is the fast food of the future. Serious, substantial freshly baked rolls come from the Good Bread Bakery in Port Chester . The fries, white or sweet potato, are cooked in oil without trans fats. Lots of fragrant herbs, especially dill, go into a dip based on low-fat yogurt, and thick vegetarian black-bean chili has just the right degree of spiciness. Delectable quesadillas ooze smothered Vidalia onions and Monterey Jack cheddar. Chopped salads, shrimp, chicken or Pickle-Licious pickles can be added to most items.

This tiny food shop has fewer than a dozen chairs, with additional seating outside in the warm months. Most patrons fax or phone in their takeout orders, as parking space can be difficult to find on this busy street. But curb-side service is available — a thoughtful touch, and the next best thing to a drive-through. Call when you arrive for a pickup, and your order will be brought out to your car.

Pony Express to Go, 30 Wheeler Avenue , Pleasantville; (914) 769-7669 or www.ponyexpresstogo.com . Fax is (914) 769-1777. Open Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.

M.H.REED